Swimming

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Hookah dive systems have been around for a very long time. Typically these systems were powered by gasoline engines on deck with a compressor attached and airlines fastened to regulators. More recently we’ve seen portable systems come to market that offer versatility and affordability not seen before. There are lighter-weight gasoline and battery powered units that float along with you on the surface as you explore the depths below, letting you travel much further than a traditional system might allow.

Brownie – VS Sea Lion

Brownie offers a number of gas powered models and recently introduced a battery powered model. Considered more professional-grade, the Brownie systems can often accommodate multiple divers at once and allow for deeper and longer dives.

Brownie – VS Sea Lion Specs

  • Run time: Up to 3+ hours available
  • Depth: 2 divers to 65 ft / 3 divers to 35 ft / 4* dives to 15ft-20ft *With the purchase of an Add-A-Diver kit
  • Weight:  Unit only 33lbs, battery 22lbs, gear bag 35lbs
  • Dimensions in Storage Case: 17 L x 24 W x 14 H (inches)

COST: $5,995.00
PROS: Deeper dives, multiple divers, longer dive times
CONS: High cost, heavier weight, can not bring on an airplane


BLU3 Nemo Tankless Dive System

Blu3-Nemo-1The BLU3 Nemo Tankless Dive System by BLU3 is another battery-powered hookah dive system that is more affordable and geared towards the hobbyist. While it doesn’t allow a diver to go as deep and lasts about third of the time as the Brownie battery-powered VS Sea Lion, it comes at a fraction of the cost. It also has Smart Reg™ technology, which monitors your breathing and can extend the life of your batteries by drawing power only while taking a breath.

BLU3 Nemo Specs

  • Run time: 60-90 minutes
  • Depth: 1 diver up to 10′
  • Weight: less than 10 pounds
  • Dimensions: measures less than 12″ on all sides

COST: $799.00
PROS: Lower cost, light weight, only hookah dive system you can bring on an airplane at the moment
CONS: Shallower dives, single diver, shorter dive times (you can bring multiple, reasonably priced batteries to extend dive time)

Posted by: Lawrence

Reading Time: < 1 minute

There have been many instances where I’ve fantasized about clearing the lineup, but in none of those fantasies did I ever imagine I’d be a breaching killer whale or a shark. Whenever you can have fun, doing something fun, to have more fun – you’re winning at life. The Seabreacher is an underwater mashup of a Jetski®, an F-15 fighter jet and a mini submarine created by Innespace Productions.

Bitness first wrote about these in 2007 (Down Periscope) and they seem to have come along in their design, differentiating themselves from other mini submarines, ones designed to dive deeper and typically launched from a yacht.

Cost: $80-110K
Source: Seabreacher

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Specs:

  • Thrust routed through an 60′ hose up to the Hoverboard
  • Personal Water Craft (PWC) follows behind the rider
  • Can fly as highs as 20 feet with speeds over 15MPH
  • Minimum power requirement: 180HP
  • Maximum power requirement: 300HP

Cost: $2,500.00 – Purchase Here

Source: EPICTV

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The Garmin VIRB, is touted as a “go-anywhere-endure-anything 1080p action camera with: built-in color ChromaTM display for setup and playback, 2000mAh battery (up to 3 hours of HD recording), and a 16 MP image sensor.”

Enclosed in a ‘rugged’ waterproof enclosure, the VIRB also provides heart rate, altitude and velocity to help set it apart.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6CGI3XkAiQ&feature=youtu.be

Cost: $299.99 USD

Posted by: Lawrence

Reading Time: 2 minutes

otterbox waterproof caseMost Sunday’s in the Summer I like to paddle up Narrow River to meet friends on the beach. We hang out with our kids, BBQ, swim, explore the estuaries for crabs and other wildlife, climb the rocks, hunt for tidal pools and surf. All of these activities have one common thread – water. Most of my free time is spent in the water and most of the time I like to keep my phone with me for emergencies or photo opportunities. Since phones and water don’t mix well, I needed a solution that was…

  • waterproof
  • durable
  • lightweight
  • easily thethered to me or a my board

The OtterBox Pursuit Series fit all my requirements and had a lot of innovations that I hadn’t considered which help protect a phone from damage. This case also allows me to carry an ID, spare cash, my car key and more if I need it (e.g. a granola bar).

The OtterBox Pursuit 40 (the model I use) costs $34.95USD and is worth every penny. Here are the specifications for this model…

  • Exterior dimensions: 2.05” H x 4.75” W x 6.95” D
  • Approximate Interior space: 30 cubic inches
  • Holds: Phone, keys, sunglasses, wallet
  • Easy to open latch
  • Tether/belt loops
  • Lockable carabiner loop
  • Internal cushioning
  • Webbed partition

The author and his daughter (OtterBox in hand).

There is a smaller model called the OtterBox Pursuit 20 (Exterior dimensions: 1.65” H x 3.85” W x 5.60” D) which costs $19.95USD. This model, like the OtterBox Pursuit 40 are available in blue, grey or black.

OtterBox sells several other waterproof cases called Classic Cases and they are available in black, yellow, blue or grey.

If you’re looking for peace-of-mind on your next adventure for your phone, keys, money and other valuables, consider the reasonably priced and well engineered OtterBox Pursuit 20 and 40.

Posted by: Lawrence

Reading Time: < 1 minute

I’m a big fan of G-Form products and not so long ago we reviewed the G-Form Elbow Pads which I now wear religiously for snowboarding.

G-Form announced during CES 2013 that in June of 2013, they will sell the G90 waterproof phone case with a 90° angled lens/mirror with up to an impressive 140° field of view (your existing smartphones lens will determine the exact field-of-view you’ll get). Because smartphones are so narrow, the G-Form set-up is more aerodynamic and poised to give GoPro, Vholdr, Drift and others a run for their money.

Posted by: Lawrence

Source: Gizmodo

Reading Time: < 1 minute

GoPro just announced the release of the 3D Hero System, which allows you to combine two 1080p HD HERO cameras into a single housing to record 3D video and photos while simultaneously recording in 2D. A synchronization cable plugs into the rear HERO Port on both cameras to join them together, enabling both cameras to record video and photos in perfect synchronization. This is a requirement for professional quality 3D and is available only from GoPro.

© GoPro "How the GoPro 3D Works"

The included 3D editing software – GoPro Cineform Studio – (recently acquired by GoPro) makes it easy to convert your 3D HERO System footage into viewable 3D files you can watch on your computer, online at sites like YouTube, and on your 2D or 3DTV at home.

Luckily I had my trusty Hannah Montana Best of Both Worlds Red/Blue 3D glasses to check out this 3D video that provides a good sense of just how cool this set-up is!

Features:

  • Mounting System is compatible with all GoPro accessories
  • 3D waterproof housing is rated 180’/60m deep
  • Record 3D and 2D video and photo files simultaneously
  • Includes FREE easy-to-use 3D editing software—GoPro CineForm Studio

Source: GoPro

Reading Time: 3 minutes

I’m a big fan of capturing moments on film and reliving them just after the fact and years down the road. I have the whole saga of getting married on tape starting with the proposal and on through to the honeymoon (easy, I’m talking about the snorkeling in Maui and the helicopter ride in Kauii).

This December a couple of friends and I hit Snowbird for some early season pow and caught it on tape using the Vholdr CountourHD and a GoPro (link). It was a good way to capture some side-by-side comparisons and left us wanting more (powder and side-by-side comparisons). From these tests, one of the most obvious differences was how important field of view is. With a smaller field of view you have to do a much better job of staying focused on the subject your recording (less margin for error). The GoPro did a better job here than the Vholdr.

Bitness reviewed the GoPro as far back as 2007 and a few years ago the Vholdr CountourHD. After carrying around a full-sized camera for so many years, unpacking it to shoot, worrying about falling with it or changing the way I rode to accommodate a good shot, well… the helmet cams were an epiphany.

Both Vholdr and GoPro have made improvements since our first tests. Vholdr has introduced a GPS version of it’s camera and GoPro greatly improved resolution and introduced myriad mounts and adapters. There are also two new cameras on the market I’m keen to test, the Drift HD170 and the Liquid Image Summit Series. Both are vastly different in appearance than the Vholdr and GoPro and both offer some unique characteristics. For example, Liquid Image creates a series of cameras in different form factors, for different sports. Rather than adapting the camera to your sport with special mounts, it comes ready-to-go for snow sports (Summit Series), motor sports (Impact Series) and water sports (Scuba, VideoMask, Explorer Series and Freedom Series).

The Drift is a durable looking camera and the only one in the lot to include a built-in LCD (GoPro has recently announced their LCD BacPac). The Drift also includes a remote control you can wear on your wrist – very cool since my friend is always asking if his GoPro is on (with the Vholdr it’s easy to know if you’re on or off since the mechanism slides forward for on and back for off).

Below is a quick look at what we felt were some of the more important metrics to consider when looking for a ‘helmet’ camera. Bitness is coordinating on a hands-on review of all 4 cameras tested under similar circumstances. Video quality, sound quality, picture quality and ease-of-use will be the focus of those tests.

Camera Specifications
Make Model Field of View Megapixels Memory Battery Performance Weight
Liquid Image Summit Series 136° 12* 4GB Micro SDHC 1.5hrs .24kg
GoPro Hero 127° 5 0 2.5hrs 167g
Vholdr CountourHD 110° 5 2GB MicroSD 2hrs 116g
Drift HD170 127° 5 32GB 2-4hrs 157g

* interpolated

Notes:
All cameras provide audio
All cameras are expandable to 32GB
Vholdr, GoPro and Drift cameras support multiple resolutions up to 1080p
Liquid Image model is currently 720p with a 1080p model planned for Fall 2011
Field of view (FoV) for 1080p, expect wider FoV for lower resolutions
Battery life depends upon recording resolution, use of LCD and other configurable options

Camera Accessories/Other
Make Model Mounts Waterproof USB LCD Other
Liquid Image Summit Series N/A No** Yes No specilty models
GoPro Hero handlebar, surf, wrist, suction cup, roll bar, chest, helmet, head, tripod To 60m Yes Optional widest array of mounts
Vholdr CountourHD handlebar, goggle, helmet, rollbar, surf, suction cup, tripod To 10m Yes No  
Drift HD170 handlebar, goggle, helmet, head strap To 0.5m Yes Yes remote control can be work on wrist

** Liquid Image waterproof models such as the Scuba Series are waterproof to 40m

Notes:
Waterproof measurements are performed with cases on the GoPro and Vholdr. The Drift needs no case

Posted by: Lawrence

Reading Time: 6 minutes

Okay, let’s just see a quick show of hands… How many of you already own a heart rate monitor of some description? Okay, quite a few of you. Alright, keep your hands up if you know how to use your HRM?  Hmmm, okay, a few hands went down. Quizzical looks on a lot of faces are telling me that a lot of you sort of know how to use your HRM, but are not sure.

Okay, one more round of questions, then: How may of you know about heart rate training zones? Okay, quite a few of put your hands up. Now, keep your hands up if you know about your heart rate training zones, as in your Max HR, your Aerobic Endurance zone, your Tempo zone, and so forth.  A few hands went down, but some more quizzical looks on faces.

You see, the problem is that, before I go and recommend which heart rate monitor you should buy for your training, I have to acknowledge that there is a lot of confusion and margin for error in this whole area of training with heart rate zones, which is why most of us buy an HRM.  So, I am afraid I feel the need to bore you with some explanations, in an attempt to clear up some of that confusion and reduce some of that margin for error. Then, we’ll get to the gadget stuff in a few minutes.

Heart rate training zones
If you read some of the web sites, magazine articles, books or HRM owner’s manuals, it sounds like heart rate training zones can be calculated fairly quickly and then you can head off to do your exercise, confident that you are targeting a specific type of fitness. But, they’re not so easy to calculate accurately and most calculations that don’t involve a scientific test (usually something like a VO2max test) are going to be prone to a lot of error. Problem is that a VO2max test can be expensive ($100-200 or more), can be time consuming (about an hour in total), and require specialists to conduct them. It is sooooo much easier just to follow the “typical guidelines” and then get started than it is to find the time, money and appropriate specialist to do a VO2max test.

But, let me give you an example of how badly you can get it wrong if you follow some of the “typical guidelines”. Many will tell you to take the number 220 and subtract your age if you want to estimate your Maximum Heart Rate for running. So, a 45 year-old guy like myself should have a maximum heart rate of 175 beats per minute (bpm). Except, my Max HR was tested on a treadmill last year (need to get another test done this year, sorry for the old numbers) at 188 bpm. So, if I follow the “typical guideline” and decide I want to target a tougher training zone for intervals on the track, they tell me I should train at 80-85% of my Max HR, or a Tempo training zone of 140-149 bpm. Which would be completely wrong for me, because I found out last year that my Tempo training zone is 151-161 bpm (80-86% of Max HR). The 140-149 bpm zone would be totally counter-productive for me – not hard enough to be improving my speed or power, but too hard to develop aerobic endurance, and I would not see the kinds of fitness gains I had hoped for if I followed the “typical guidelines”.

So, if you want to take this stuff seriously, then get a VO2max test done by an experienced professional and get more out of your training and your HRM.

The other approach you could take would be much less expensive, much more time-consuming, require you to listen to your body, and won’t give you any useful numbers for a while. You could use a heart rate monitor and write down your heart rates at key points in your work-outs (you’ll have to talk to your coach about this for more specific details), and then after several months of regular recording of your numbers, alongside your pacing and Rates of Perceived Exertion, then it might be possible to estimate your personal heart rate training zones.

Heart Rate Monitors
Well, the good news is that you don’t need to go out and buy the latest and most expensive HRM on the market. Of course, the latest and most expensive HRM on the market might have all the features you’d really like to have in an HRM (GPS mapping for speed, distance and route maps, downloadable to your computer, totally waterproof, extended battery life up to 20 hours, perfect for iron-distance triathletes…), like the Garmin Forerunner 310xt pictured to the right there ($300-400). But, there are also plenty of lower priced heart rate monitors that do a great job and cost about 1/4 the price.

So, what would I say are the most useful minimum set of features that an HRM needs to have?

  • Measuring heart rate reliably (well, duh!)
  • Stopwatch with lap counter (total number of laps depends on what you’re doing, really, but the more the better for long-distance people who might want to know their mile splits on a marathon, or perhaps their lap splits for a long track session)
  • Interval or count-down timer (useful if I say, want to do some fartlek with a burst of speed for 100 strides every 4 minutes, or something)
  • Waterproof to 50m (for those of us who also like to time our swims in the pool, not necessarily with HR, but still handy to be able to use the stopwatch with lap counter fully submerged in the water)

My favorite heart rate monitor in the “entry-level” category, that fits all the criteria mentioned above, sadly, is not made any more. It is a Nike Triax C8, it cost me about $80 five years ago, and it still works brilliantly to this day. Sadly, Nike seems to be more focused on footwear and watches that make fashion statements and I could not find any new HRMs currently available that I would recommend.

However, Timex do make some HRMs that are very reasonably priced and seem to have all the features mentioned above. I owned an Ironman-branded Timex watch before I had the Nike Triax HRM and it was very good value for money (but it was not an HRM) and lasted through my first 3 years of triathlon training in all kinds of water, weather and conditions. The Ironman Race Trainer model, pictured to the left, seems to be a very good one with all the features you might need to get started (and it can cost a lot less if you buy it on Amazon).

Garmin also do some very good models that are not as expensive as the 310xt. For example, I own a Forerunner 305 (the one pictured at the top of the article on my wrist) that costs about half of what the 310xt costs and is great for long runs. It is not water-proof, so I can’t wear it when I swim, and the battery life is only estimated for 8 hours, so I can’t use it for iron-distance training or racing situations. But, it has been so useful to have GPS distance and speed measurements available for the lower price.

More information, advice and selection
There are still a lot of other factors you may want to consider when buying and HRM. Is the heart rate strap compatible with your turbo trainer? Your treadmill? Your cycle computer? Will it work with Nike+ and iPod accessories? Other gadgets you might use in your training?  How does it feel when you are wearing it (the Garmin HRMs shown here in this article are very bulky and uncomfortable)?  These are also important questions to think about, and don’t make your purchasing decision any quicker or easier, but can make your usage of the HRM a lot more beneficial in your training.

HeartRateMonitor.co.uk is an excellent resource for people in the UK, and HeartRateMonitorsUSA.com for people in the US, who want to learn more about heart rate monitors, features, and objective product reviews, alongside an impressive range of products for sale on their web sites.  So, check them out, too, and get as much information as you can handle before making your purchase.

Reading Time: 5 minutes

Swimming

The sound of zipping up your wetsuit early in the morning.

The small ripples you make in the water when you get in. The splashes other people make when they get in.

They squeal and make high-pitched noises, but you have done this so many times before in much colder conditions, you just sink into it quietly and don’t make much noise. Warm up slowly, get the blood moving gradually.

The even steady rhythm of hands entering the water, good catch at the front, full stroke all the way through, relaxed hand and high elbow recovers to the front.

There is a tiny drip-drop sound that droplets of water make as they drip off your hand when it recovers back to the front and then you smoothly, purposefully place your hand back in the water.

Your legs don’t make much noise when you kick steadily and smoothly. It’s more like a percussive beat in the background.

The sound of your breathing, quick strong inhale, slow steady exhale.

Your ears might be covered by your swim cap(s) and you are cut off from the rest of the world.

Consistent breathing every 3 strokes, sometimes every 4 or 5 or 6 or 7 strokes.  At the very beginning and at the very end, maybe every 2 strokes.

Your heart beating in your ears. The hands, legs, breathing, heart all fall into synch with each other.

How is it that people get bored when they are swimming? How is it that they say they don’t have enough to occupy their minds and ears?  As cool a gadget as it seems, I can’t imagine wanting to get the Finis SwiMP3 player, myself.  There is more than enough for me to listen to. Maybe when I start swimming more than 5k I’ll think differently…

Cycling
Cycling shoes clicking into pedals. When you can do it without looking down, when you know the feel of the shoes and the pedals and you’ve done it 100 times before and all you need to do is listen for the right sort of click sound. (There is a wrong sort of click sound that sounds like the right sort of click, but isn’t exactly the same.)

The sound of fully inflated tires against smooth pavement. Whizzzzzzz along early in the morning, going off to meet some friends for a long ride, or maybe just head off on your own.

The clean, well-oiled chain as it zips around the rear cassette up towards the front chainring and back around through the rear derailleur.  Smooth and nearly silent. When the morning is quiet enough and the streets are empty enough, you can hear it.

The clacking-buzzing sound of the freewheel, when you stop pedaling and the back wheel keeps spinning and it makes that sound of freewheeling.

The steadier, slower rhythm of pedaling uphill. Move the bike, not the body, keep driving down and all the way around on the pedals. Steady, maybe slightly uneven rhythms. But it’s your rhythm, and when you feel good, you own that rhythm.

Up out of the seat and harder on the pedals, picking up the pace on the hills and pushing a little faster.

The sound of your breathing getting heavier on the hills. Most of the time you don’t notice the sound of your breathing, not like you do when swimming or running. But, on the hills you notice.

You don’t need to look at your heart rate monitor to know how hard you’re pushing, how much longer you can hold it like that. When you’ve done it 100 times before, you just know. And sometimes you push harder, sometimes you hold something back for later. It’s your rhythm, your choice.

When you go really fast downhill and stop pedaling, you probably can’t hear it any more. The wind is rushing through your ears, your helmet, your clothing so fast that all you hear is fast-moving air.

You take a drink on the downhill and re-fuel for whatever comes next. The sound of a bottle that is almost empty, liquid sloshing around audibly. Needs to be switched with another bottle you brought or one you’ll get at an aid station.

Brakes touching the rims. Slowing down slowly, steadily or abruptly.  Metal rims sound different than carbon rims.

You can hear when your brake pads are getting too worn out, feel when the cables need a little tightening.

You can hear when your wheels aren’t true and the spokes need tightening.

You can hear when the brakes aren’t in perfect alignment.

You can hear when the derailleur needs a little adjustment.

You can hear when cars are approaching from behind.

You can hear around corners, sometimes, approaching cars from the sides or up ahead.

Not always, but sometimes you can hear another cyclist come up behind you.

Those guys with the disk wheel on the back, you can hear them coming a mile away. It’s like a noise Darth Vader would make if he were riding a bike, like some hellish, basso profundo, voof-voof-voof sound that is coming to get you and you are helpless to escape.

Who on earth would want to listen to music on a bicycle?  There is so much to listen to, to listen out for.

Well, maybe on the turbo trainer. Yes, I will admit to making playlists and listening to music when stationary. But, never when I’m out on the road.

Running
Pulling on compression socks, for a longer run, strapping on a heart rate monitor or a GPS to tell you how far, how fast, how hard. Small sounds, maybe the occasional electronic beep to tell you something is activated or there’s an error message.

I can understand people wanting to listen to music while running. Most people seem to run because they feel they HAVE to run – maybe it’s the cheapest, easiest way they can think of to lose weight or stay in shape. But, if you LOVE running, then it’s different. There’s plenty to listen to without music in your ears.

The sound of your feet hitting the ground. You can tell a lot from the sound your feet make, if you listen out for it. Pronation, supination, heel strike, fore-foot strike, strong ankles, wobbly ankles, short stride, long stride.

The surface you run on makes a big difference, too. The relative flat sound of running on streets, up and down sidewalks. The gravelly sound of running on paths. The crinkling, crunching sound of leaves and twigs and grass on a trail.

Your breathing is much more pronounced when running. Your heart rate will probably be more elevated than in the other two sections.

You can hear it more in your ears, feel it more in your whole body, your breathing, your heart pounding.  It’s more like it was on the swim, but now the sounds from all around you are part of it, too.

Early in the morning, you can tell the changing of the seasons, predict the weather for the rest of the day by listening to the birds around you, even in the densest most crowded cities.

Need to listen out for cars, too. Hybrid cars have the unfortunate distinction of being the toughest to hear coming, so you need to be specially careful about them.

There’s always music playing in my head. Not full songs, but usually my favorite bits that I keep playing over and over again.

The bass intro to “Superstition” by Stevie Wonder, up until “Very superstitious writing’s on the wall.”

The intro to “Back To Life” by Soul II Soul, up to “Back to life, back to reality.”

The chorus of “Sex on Fire” by Kings of Leon, as well as the line “Hot as a fever, rattling bones.”

Who knows what will play in my head next time. Something I heard on the radio this morning, something I heard 25 years ago at Danceteria (“A E A E I O U U, and sometimes Y-ii”? oh, no!), something my daughter played over and over again last week (“promise I made, promise I made, started to fade, started to fade”? hmm, okay…). I know I can’t sing worth a damn. But it always sounds great in my head.

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Okay, confession time!  I don’t know much about fetishes, but I think I have developed a wetsuit fetish.

One of the things I love about doing triathlons is wearing wetsuits. I love open-water swimming, anyway, with or without a wetsuit. I am a Pisces and maybe that has something to do with it. But, with a wetsuit, you get more buoyancy (so you have to do less work to stay afloat), get more streamlined (so you fight the water less) and basically I swim at least 10% faster when I wear a wetsuit.

But, it’s more than that.  Without trying to change the tone of this wonderful, gadget-obsessed, slightly geeky blog, I am going to go out on a limb and say that I think wetsuits are sexy. Not sexy in any kind of immediately obvious way (you know, all wrapped up in black neoprene and stuff), but sexy in the sense of making you feel more powerful, more capable, more like…well, a superhero or something.

Tell me you don’t think you would swim faster, look cooler and generally feel more sexy in that Sailfish One over there. Am I right or am I right?  Maybe I’m totally crazy and it’s time for me to get a new hobby. But, if I’m crazy, then why did they put that Sailfish graphic on the butt?  Just answer met that.

As a coach with Swim for Tri, I am lucky enough to have been given some awesome deals on some awesome wetsuits. And, this year we are sponsored by Speedo, so we have been given a pretty nice range of Speedo wetsuits to try out. I have tried (and loved) the Speedo STR Pro, which is probably the best-fitting wetsuit I have ever worn.  I am looking forward to wearing it in my races this summer, and I am counting on it (and it alone, without needing to do any more serious swim training) to make me swim faster than I have ever swum before.

And then, the other day, I had a revelation. I tried the Speedo Thinswim wetsuit when I was coaching at a swimming pool early one morning. I had encouraged everyone to bring their wetsuits to the pool so that we could talk about putting them on, taking them off, and how they change your front crawl technique. I brought the Thinswim because I didn’t want to be wearing a wetsuit of normal thickness (Thinswim is about 1mm thick whereas most wetsuits are about 3-5mm thick) all morning and get dehydrated while I was coaching.  But, here’s the revelation: once I got the Thinswim wetsuit on, I did not want to take it off.

Forget about the fact that it is not nearly as buoyant as the other, thicker wetsuits, and it probably won’t make you go as fast as a normal, thick wetsuit. Forget about the fact that it is harder to get the Thinswim on because the material is so much thinner and harder to pull on (especially in the arms). Forget about the fact that the thinner material leaves NOTHING to the imagination, and everyone will know what religion you practice.  I wore it for 4 hours the other day and honestly wanted to keep wearing it all day long.

It makes me want to swim around the world, if only to have an excuse to keep wearing the Thinswim for months at a time.  So, that’s gotta be a good thing, right?

Even as I type this, I am debating the pro’s and con’s of stuffing it in my backpack as I set off for the Alresford Music Festival, just on the outside chance that I get a chance to wear it at some point this weekend  – a weekend which, I might add, my daughter has banned me from all triathlon-related activities.

So, just to finish off the sordid picture I have drawn for you, I have been reduced to sneaking around behind people’s backs so that I can get a few minutes of sheer multi-sensory delight with the Thinswim.   Maybe it will rain really heavily and it will make perfect sense for me to walk around in a wetsuit.  Maybe there are worse things to be obsessed with.

Reading Time: 5 minutes

Sorry for the long silence. Been away for a while, getting stuck into my big challenge this year: training for my first ironman triathlon (the Forestman).

For those of you who didn’t know (and if you already knew this, then please allow me to try and impress you once more with the sheer numbers), an ironman triathlon involves 3.8 km (2.4 mi) of swimming, 180 km (112 mi) of cycling, and 42.2 km (26.2 mi) of running, all in one continuous event, with the clock running the whole time.  A guy like me (45 years old, been doing triathlon for about 8 years now, training pretty regularly, but not winning any medals in any races) will do about 75-85 minutes of swimming, about 6-6.5 hours of cycling and 4-4.5 hours or running at the end of it all.  The top guys will routinely finish in under 10 hours, bless ’em. But, I’ll probably be looking at something closer to 13 hours (gotta include time in transition between events, since the clock is always running, and it makes sense to take 10-15 min to dry off and put some clean socks on before you set off for a 6-hour cycle ride, rather than rush through it and be uncomfortable or getting blisters for the next 6 hours). Most courses will have about a 17-hour cut-off point after which they have to clear the course of anyone who hasn’t finished by sun-down.

Tapering
My race is about 2 weeks away now, so I am officially in the “taper” phase of training, which means I am doing fewer and fewer hours of training each week (at my peak, I was doing about 15-20 hours each week, now I am down to about 10-12 hours a week), so that I get to race day feeling fresh and well-rested. But, at the same time, I am trying to keep the intensity of each session quite high, so that I keep my fitness levels and sharpness high for the day of the race. But, it has also given me more time to step back and reflect on what I have been doing this year, think about the training I have done so far, and what factors have contributed to getting me this far.

Milestones and motivation
Some ups, some downs, and some key milestones along the way. It helps to have some carefully targeted events to measure your progress and keep you motivated along the way, such as:

  • Back in early April, I did a 5k Swimathon for charity, which was an excellent exercise in settling into a good steady pace for 102 minutes of non-stop swimming. And it gave me a lot of confidence to know that I could swim way more than the 3.8k I’d need to swim in an Ironman. Of course, at the Swimathon, I swam next to Dan Bullock, one of Britain’s fastest veteran swimmers, which was simultaneously humbling and inspiring. He finished in about 62 minutes, or 40% faster than I did.
  • A few weeks later, I got offered a last-minute spot in the London Marathon, and I managed to get around in 3 hours and 28 minutes, which I was very pleased with.
  • Lots and lots of long cycle rides with fellow triathlon club members, including one super-gorgeous, super-tough day of about 130 miles trying to keep up with some incredibly fast, ridiculously tall guys 10 and 20 years younger than me.  Again, humbling and inspiring seems to be the theme to my training this year.
  • Joined a relay team to swim across the English Channel to raise money for charity, later on in September. That has given me something to look forward to once the Forestman is over (and lots of people tell me about the post-ironman blues, that anticlimactic feeling that sets in after achieving such a big goal as this).

And, I’ve learned a few valuable lessons along the way, about myself and about some of the people in the triathlon community around me…

  • Given half a chance, your typical triathlete who trains for ironman-distance races, will become obsessed.  I mean, if you are an amateur athlete then trying to find 15-20 hours a week in which to do all your training, you kind of have to be obsessed. It helps that I am a triathlon coach and so some of my training gets done in the course of working. But, family, friends, holidays, working schedules, sleeping routines, meal times, and your favorite TV shows will all end up taking a back seat to this all-consuming passion.  There’s no way to sugar-coat it: I have seen my fair share of marital strife, disappointed friends, and unhappy kids this year and some parts of my life are in worse shape than they were before I started this.  Has it been worth it? Ask me in a few weeks.
  • We also can be very boring companions, we iron-distance triathletes.  There are times that the only people who want to be around me are other triathletes, especially those who are also doing iron-distance training. I typically run out of small talk within 15-20 minutes and eventually resort to ironman-related conversation, pretty much wherever I go, whatever I do.  I have been known to recommend to 20-something fashion models that they eat sports gels and drink sports drinks, instead of resorting to their natural diet of coffee and cigarettes, in order to get through their rigorous schedules.  So “bored incomprehension” is the look I am getting used to seeing a lot more these days.
  • And, when we’re not training, we’re recovering from training, or we’re eating everything in sight, or we’re going to bed early to get ready for the next training session.  So, in the other hours of the day that we’re not training, it still is all about the training.
  • Once you give in to the obsession, get used to the unsociable hours, and accept the fact that all of your friends and family have given up on you, it really isn’t so bad. If you’re lucky enough to find some other people to train with, then you can all motivate each other and commiserate with each other. But, the actual training itself is really not that tough. You will go slower than you would normally go for shorter distance training, and you just have to stick it out for a lot longer. Boredom is probably the toughest part of an 8-hour training ride or a 4-hour training run.
  • You can probably eat anything you want while you are training for iron-distance races, and you will still probably lose weight. Not that you should subsist entirely on ice cream and coke, but you probably will have to consume a huge number of calories to get your body back in balance when you get back from an 8-hour training ride. If you choose to consume 2000 kcal of salad and whole grains, that is great! If you choose to consume 2000 kcal of  burgers, fries and ice cream, then that ain’t so bad, either.
  • It’s worth saying one more time that without the support and camaraderie of my friends at Tri London, I would not have made it through that tough, freezing winter with so many useful hours of training under my belt.  Whatever I do at the race on June 27 will be almost entirely due to the support of people like Kev, Roz, Lance, Guido, Andrew and Stephen, dragging me around Southern England at 6am almost every Saturday, and waiting for me at the end of every hilly climb.

Still feels like a long way to go, and maybe longer still once I sign up to do it all over again next year.

Posted by: Robert

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Interval training is increased intensity for a given activity (lifting, running, rowing, cycling) for a measured amount of time, followed by a reduced level activity for a measured amount of time. Typically done in sets, interval training can be anaerobic – fat burning high intensity interval training (HIIT) typically focused on starving larger muscle groups of oxygen – or aerobic, where low to moderate intensity is used for a longer period of time, allowing muscles to ‘breathe’ and build stamina.

Both anaerobic and aerobic exercise are beneficial and interval training is a great tool to realize those benefits, while at the same time adding a new dimension to workouts to keep them interesting.

Measuring intervals is easy, but too often it distracts you from your chosen exercise. I’ve been in all-out sprints with my left arm unnaturally poised in front of me so I could read my watch (with difficulty and added risk). Others rely on a partner’s shouts to let them know when to speed up, slow down or stop. A small device called the GymBoss (1 3/4 x 2 1/4 inches) is a lightweight, inexpensive ($20USD) and eliminates the need to focus on anything else but your workout. Clip it to your belt, stick it in your pocket or place it on a shelf for indoors workouts – it’s barely noticeable until a shrill beep, strong vibration or both effectively alert you (to be honest the first time it beeped it startled the hell out of me).

The GymBoss easily satisfies what I would consider my basic need for measuring intervals while running. Others use it to time rounds (up to 99 can be programmed) on the heavy bag or for cycling, weight lifting and other pursuits. Other GymBoss features include…

  • One or two different time intervals from 2 seconds to 99 minutes
  • Auto mode / repeat through intervals
  • Manual mode / countdown timer
  • Stopwatch

The manual is a small double-sided slip of paper they package under the belt clip. If you’re just getting started with interval training and want more information, check out some of these sites so the directions make more sense and you can program the GymBoss accordingly…

http://www.intervaltraining.net/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interval_training
http://sportsmedicine.about.com/od/tipsandtricks/a/Intervals.htm

For $20USD you really can’t beat the GymBoss, it does everything it says it does and does it well.

Posted by: Lawrence

Reading Time: 2 minutes

If you enjoy the outdoors all year long, even when it’s wet and cold, you have to prepare properly. When dressing for the winter leave the cotton at home – once wet it’s like a death blanket. Keep your head and neck covered and make sure you have adequate protection for your hands and feet (while allowing for proper blood flow). Make sure you bring a lot of carbs to stay fueled and don’t forget your body needs to stay hydrated – especially in winter.

OK Nanook, so you’re ready for a good time in the outdoors with friends and you need a reliable camera to capture those moments where you’re huddled over a fire looking like a ragged group of post apocalyptic survivors. Enter the Panasonic LUMIX DMC-TS2, a waterproof, freeze-proof and shockproof 14.1-megapixel camera also capable of recording HD video.

The LUMIX TS2 is a camera built for action. It’s waterproof to 33 feet /10m (1 atmosphere for you divers), shockproof to 10 feet (2m), freeze-proof to 14° F (-10° C) and dust-proof. The airtight body protects it against water immersion, dust and sand and rubber padding, reinforced glass (protecting the 2.7-inch, 230,000-dot Intelligent LCD) and carbon construction inside the camera further ruggedize the LUMIX TS2 that is also as smart as it is tough.

The LUMIX TS2 is not only tough, it’s also full of features that make it an excellent choice for any occasion. Some features of the LUMIX TS2 include…

  • 28mm wide-angle LEICA DC VARIO ELMAR lens (4.6x optical zoom)
  • Built-in LED light for lighting-up dark areas (such as underwater)
  • Face detection (up to 15 faces)
  • iA (Intelligent Auto) features such as Intelligent auto Resolution,Zoom, AF Tracking, ISO Control and Exposure
  • Built-in Modes such as ‘Happy’ Mode (optimized color, saturation and brightness) for vivid photos or video and High Dynamic Mode for situations where a scene includes bright and dark areas
  • Compatible with SDXC Memory Cards up to 64GB
  • Rechargeable battery that takes up to 360 images on a single charge

Pricing and availability for the Panasonic LUMIX TS2 will be announced 30 days prior to shipping date (unannounced, but note that it’s predecessor, the LUMIX TS1 was priced around $380USD). The Panasonic LUMIX TS2 will be available in silver, blue, orange and yellow.

Posted by: Lawrence

Reading Time: 10 minutes

Alright, for those of us in the northern hemisphere, or who are not doing much racing until May/June/July, etc., this is probably what you would call our Base period of training. Now is the time to focus on technique, endurance and conditioning work.  In other words, going back to basics, polishing things up, learning from last year’s mistakes and vowing to get it right this year. So, start off slow and easy, get some expert advice, maybe some coaching or tuition and build your fitness on a solid foundation that will be broader, stronger and allow later fitness gains to go higher than before. [That’s why it’s good to think of it as Base period, by the way.  Get it? A base to build on… a foundation…good.]

In the world of swimming, that means swimming drills, and swimming drills mean swimming toys.  Here is a list of things I already have in my swim bag, and how they help my training. Swimming can be technical and complicated, many splendored thing. It’s more than just flailing up and down the lanes at the local pool – drop me a line at robert.popper@sky.com for advice.

Aquasphere Kayenne goggles

Goggles
Okay, duh!  You already knew you needed goggles to go swimming in the pool, but how many different makes and models have you tried?  Do you go for the cheapest ones they sell at the pool? Do you go for the most expensive ones?  Always try on different makes and models to see which ones suit your face and eye-sockets best. A swimming coach friend told me that a good way to gauge goggle fit is to press them into position over your eyes without the straps to see if they stay on your face.

I have tried dozens and dozens of pairs of goggles (and, yes, I have some that were the cheapest ones sold at the swimming pool!) and my favorites are the ones shown above, Aquasphere Kayenne with blue tinted lenses (because, quite frankly, the whole world just looks so much cooler when it’s all blue-tinted). I like a wider frame, but not too wide or mask-like and these offer a 180-degree view (considering that most of my swimming in Spring and Summer will be open water swimming), and I like the overall feel of the material (hypoallergenic Softeril®, so they tell me). I have also tried others that I like, such as the Aquasphere Seal XP (however it’s mask-like profile makes it better for open water than for swimming pools) and the Speedo Pacific Storm (one of my favorites at the less expensive end of the market for day-to-day swimming pool practice. Don’t discount the notion that putting something called Pacific Storm on your face might just make you the coolest kid in the pool) and remember, always carry an extra pair of goggles with you whenever you go swimming.

Water bottle
Yes, a water bottle. If you are going to be swimming for more than 20 minutes, you will probably get thirsty and should take little sips frequently during rest periods in between drills or intervals at the end of the lane. Even better than drinking water is a sports drink with some sugar and electrolytes to replace minerals and salts lost when you sweat. Yes, you sweat when you swim, you just don’t notice it as much.  Any water bottle will do, as long as it is plastic and water-tight.

Swim cap
Wait a minute! I thought that this was supposed to be a cutting-edge, state-of-the-art web site about all the coolest sports gadgets and stuff! What’s all this about goggles, water bottles, swim caps, and low-tech, obvious nonsense? When do we get to the cool shit?  Swim caps are just for girls, anyway, aren’t they?

Okay, why wear a swim cap when you’re swimming in the swimming pool? Hygiene? Sure, keep those loose hairs from clogging up the filters. Speed/hydrodynamics? Sure, shave 0.5 seconds off your next 50m sprint with a swim cap.  How about the old adage that you should train as you mean to race?

Consider this scenario: It’s race day and you’re given a bright colored swim cap so the organizers can tell what wave you’re in and so the kayakers can see you from a distance (and fish your drowning ass out of the water if they need to, because you didn’t train well, positioned yourself too close to the front like a total macho idiot, went off too fast like a total newbie, and cramped up). You’re hot, sweaty and nervous in the transition area, just squeezed into your wetsuit on and have Body Glide or Palmer’s Cocoa Butter Body Oil (sooo much better than Body Glide in my opinion, as it’s affordable, smells nice and is made from vegetable oil and therefor totally wetsuit-friendly) all over your hands. You struggle to put on your swim cap which keeps slipping off, it feels uncomfortable and your head is hot. Because your not used to it! Had you spent the past several months swimming with a swim cap on every single time, then fitting the cap on your head would be second nature. You would get it positioned just right, be used to the feel and not think twice about it. Eliminate distractions, so when you look at the cold, dark water your prepared to deal with all those horror stories you’ve heard about open water mass swim starts.

Swim caps come in latex (the basic, normal ones), polyester (god-awful, ugly ones that are, apparently, easier to put on and take off and make you look like you are an Australian lifeguard who never finished high school), silicone (easier to get on and off, thicker and warmer than latex), and neoprene (even thicker, warmer and often have a chin strap to keep them firmly in place). I can’t possibly recommend any one manufacturer or model in any of those styles, but remember to always carry a spare whenever you go swimming.

Aquasphere Alphafins totally rock

Fins
Why use fins for swim training?  Increased speed? Yes, but why is that important (other than being really cool when you motor up and down the lane, like, twice as fast as people swimming without fins on)?  Three reasons:

  • fins increase pressure on your lower legs and so help develop and strengthen those muscles more effectively than swimming without fins (which is also why you need to be careful about cramps and aches in your legs and feet if you are new to using fins)
  • fins are more likely to force your feet into a streamlined and hydrodynamic position when you are kicking, which is especially useful for triathletes (whose feet don’t often get very extended when cycling and running, and are often likely to be inflexible down there)
  • fins give you the extra speed and forward thrust you need to do slower technical drills, so that you are concentrating on the drill and not on the fact that you are sinking to the bottom of the pool.

Personally, I always swim drills with and without fins on, because I don’t want to get too reliant on the fins for extra propulsion, or the giddy feeling of speed you get when swimming with fins.

Sadly, I have no excuse to go out and buy a new pair of Aquasphere Alphafins, since I already have a perfectly serviceable pair and they will probably last me for years and years (honestly, what is going to wear out or break down on a pair of fins?). However, should my current fins get lost, stolen, or by some chance left behind in a foreign country, then I would go right out and get me another pair of Alphafins.  They are made of foam so they float in the water (which is handy when putting them on in the pool) and they are much lighter than other types of fins (which is great for guys like me who sometimes end up carrying fins around in my back-pack all day long).

Kick board
Kick boards primarily help with kicking, especially for front crawl (although it has its uses with back stroke, as well). Take your arms out of the equation and kick from the hips and not from your knees (kicking from the knees just increases drag and resistance, slows you down and just tires you out faster). Use a shallow kick that is in line with the profile of your body in the water. Keep your body aligned, as if you were swimming through a tube in the water and you don’t want to kick outside that tube.

Using a kick board in front crawl training also helps ensure that one hand always stays at the front of the stroke, like when doing “catch-up” drills. Some people recommend using kick boards for any of the single-arm drills. I do all of the kick board-based drills with and without a kick board, because (like when swimming with fins) it can become a bit of a crutch and I always like to see what it feels like to swim drills with no toys whatsoever.

Sometimes you’ll find a kick board sitting around the side of the pool and sometimes you need to bring one of your own if you want to be sure you have one for your drills. They are all similar, but the best one I’ve tried is the Speedo Pullkick, which doubles up as a pull buoy and a kick board.

Speedo Pullkick doubles up as a kick board and pull buoy

Pull buoy
Pull buoys help take your legs out of the equation, typically when swimming front crawl or back stroke.  You should do this for a few different reasons:

  • to put more emphasis on the arms, back and upper body movement in your stroke
  • to see how your kick impacts the rest of your stroke (believe it or not, some triathletes I coach swim a little bit faster when they use a pull buoy and stop kicking, so that tells us right away what they need to work on) and especially in your upper body rotation
  • to see how effectively you are using your core muscles in your swimming (one tell-tale sign of poor core engagement is when someone starts to “fish-tail” – legs swinging from side-to-side when using a pull buoy).

Another really useful drill to do with a larger pull buoy, a kick board, or something like the Pullkick mentioned above, is to tap the pull buoy with every stroke when swimming front crawl. This helps ensure that you have a good follow-through on each stroke and your hand finishes past your hips, rather than coming out of the water early. When you do this, though, make sure you rotate your shoulders and upper body to effect the extra reach you need to tap the pull buoy, rather than collapse in your mid-section or arch your back to reach down to touch the pull buoy.

Speedo Tech paddle, comes in small, medium and large

Paddles
Paddles are typically used for increasing power and upper body strength when swimming, sort of like fins do for the lower body. People new to paddles should start with the smallest size and work their way up to larger sizes. Be careful to avoid strains or shoulder injuries, stop if you feel any acute pain and take the paddles off.

Paddles are very useful for improving technique in a few different ways:

  • Strap just your middle finger into the paddle and not your wrist or other fingers (depending on which paddle you use, they have different strap configurations on them) when doing front crawl. This encourages you to keep your hand straight as it comes out of the water at the end of the stroke, as well as finish the stroke all the way through past your hips instead of coming out of the water too early (similar to the touch-the-pull-buoy drill mentioned above), otherwise you’ll feel the paddle pull away from your hand and might even lose it in the water if it is not straight.
  • Do some sculling and catch drills with paddles on to increase the resistance to the water. Then take the paddles off and see how much more sensitive your hands are in feeling the water at the front of the stroke!
  • Do some sculling drills with paddles on, but not strapped to your hands. See if you can keep the paddles on your hands using the pressure of the water and a smooth, continuous hand movement.
  • Do single-arm drills with paddles on to heighten your awareness of how each individual hand moves through the water, and how that effects your catch, pull and upper body rotation.

Some pools may not allow you to use paddles, because it’s supposedly too dangerous when swimming close to other people (apparently it’s not too dangerous when a drowning-coughing-spluttering man does his impossibly slow breast stroke then slaps and kicks you whenever swimming past). So alternatively, consider swimming gloves, which are made of soft neoprene and provide similar resistance to paddles (but not the fun versatility to do some of the drills recommended above).

So, these are the basic toys that a swimmer will need to do a good range of swimming drills and build a solid foundation. You don’t need to use all the toys every time you go swimming or do drills, but they will all come in handy at some point.

A few other toys that I don’t have in my bag, but have been recommended to me as being useful and/or fun:

Snorkel: A center-line snorkel, rather than one that goes to either side, which allows you to keep your head in the water the whole time and focus on things like arm movement, upper body rotation, hip movement, leg movement, or pretty much anything other than turning your head to breathe.

Hip rotation devices: There are a few different toys out there that will put more emphasis on getting good hip rotation, which is an extension of good upper body rotation, good core strength and engagement, and good overall streamlining in the water. Finis’ Tech Toc sounds like the coolest of the bunch with these devices.

PowerBreathers: There are other brands out there, other than PowerBreathe, but these guys pretty much dominate the swimming scene. They make a bunch of different types of products, but the idea is that they help you expand and strengthen the capacity of your diaphragm (not, as many believe, strengthen your lungs, which you do through aerobic exercise, not through breathing into one of these things). Developing your diaphragm improves your ability to inhale and exhale with greater power and efficiency.  Some of my friends swear by them and have seen dramatic results with regular practice in a matter of weeks.

Swim-specific Heart Rate Monitor: Most heart rate monitors will not give accurate readings under water, since the contact with the chest strap or the wrist pulse can be unreliable (some say that they work pretty well under wetsuits in open water, but personally I have never had reliable readings). Finis is one of the first companies I know of that offer a swim-specific HRM.

Posted by: Robert